Hiking in Central Corsica

Corte, a stopover town at the foot of the mountains

Built around a citadel perched on a rocky outcrop, Corte served as the capital of independent Corsica in the 18th century and remains today the university town of the island's interior. Its position, at the crossroads of routes towards the Restonica, the Niolu and Vizzavona, makes it a logical base for organising several days of hiking in different valleys without changing accommodation. It is also one of the few places in Central Corsica where shops, restaurants and equipment rental are easily found, a significant advantage before setting off for several days in the mountains.

The Restonica valley and its glacial lakes

• Bergeries de Grotelle (1,370 m), starting point for the hike to the lakes
• Lac de Melo (1,711 m), first accessible lake
• Lac de Capitello (1,930 m), beyond a second rocky barrier
• Natural pools of the Restonica river, ideal for swimming

The Restonica valley, carved by the river of the same name over about fifteen kilometres, remains the best-known excursion in Central Corsica. From the Bergeries de Grotelle, where the road ends, a well-marked trail reaches the lakes of Melo and Capitello: allow around 8.3 km round trip, 730 metres of elevation gain and 5 hours of walking to link the two lakes, the second requiring you to cross a rocky barrier equipped with handrails. Below, the river forms natural pools all along the valley, much appreciated for cooling off after the descent, especially in the height of summer.

Lake Nino and the Niolu plateau

To the west of Corte, Lake Nino, sitting at 1,743 metres above sea level on the Niolu plateau, is among the largest mountain lakes in Corsica. It is crossed by the GR20, making it a popular stop for hikers doing the entire trail, but also a destination in its own right for those who reach the plateau via shorter routes starting from the Niolu. The pozzines, the peaty grasslands surrounding the lake, are home to semi-wild horses and cows in summer pasture, a landscape quite different from the mineral ridges generally associated with Central Corsica.

Waterfalls and forests of the interior

Less frequented than the Restonica, the Radule waterfall, near Albertacce in the Corsica Regional Natural Park, offers a drop of around 25 metres at the end of an accessible walk that provides an appreciable feeling of freshness even in the height of summer. The area, surrounded by sheepfolds still in operation, allows you to combine hiking with a break for Corsican cheese or charcuterie in one of them depending on the season. Further south, the Vizzavona forest, with its centuries-old beech and Laricio pine trees, forms another classic entry point to the summits of Central Corsica, in almost continuous shade even in the hottest weather.

The GR20 through Central Corsica

It is in this area that the GR20 crosses some of its most emblematic sections, between the Manganu refuge, near Lake Nino, and the Vizzavona forest. One of the most accessible stages of the GR20 for non-hikers starts precisely from Vizzavona station to reach the Cascade des Anglais: just under 7 km round trip, 264 metres of elevation gain and about 2h40 of walking on a well-marked trail that follows the route of the legendary path, before turning back without having to commit to a full stage. It is a good way to sample the atmosphere of the GR20 without the difficulty of its most technical sections, particularly those around Monte Rotondo a little further north.

Hiking with family and for beginners

Central Corsica has a reputation for being demanding, but some of its itineraries remain accessible to families. The walk to Lake Melo alone, without pushing on to Capitello, allows you to shorten the outing in the Restonica valley considerably while keeping the essential scenery. The hike to the Cascade des Anglais from Vizzavona, described as easy and well-marked, is also suitable for those with little experience, with the option of stopping along the way in the cool of the forest. In all cases, the altitude changes things compared to the coast: it is better to set off early, bring a warm layer even in summer, and allow more walking time than estimated for children or occasional hikers.

<0>Getting equipped for the Corsican mountains<1>

The trails of Central Corsica often combine polished granite slabs, scree fields and sections where you sometimes need to use your hands: high-top hiking boots with grippy soles make a real difference, more so than on the coastal paths in the rest of Haute-Corse. Summer storms form quickly in the mountains, usually in the early afternoon, which is a good reason to set off early in the morning and keep an eye on the sky rather than starting a long route late in the day. A trail map, plenty of water and, on the longest hikes, enough to spend the night in case of the unexpected remain precautions to take seriously in this area, which is more isolated than the coast.

<0>When to go hiking in Central Corsica?<1>

The useful season for high-altitude routes is shorter here than on the coast: snow can linger on the trails around the lakes and on the GR20 until late spring depending on the year, which often pushes back the comfortable opening of the major hikes to <0>June<1>. Summer, from July to early September, remains the most reliable period for the mountain lakes and the higher sections of the GR20, with cool mornings and warmer afternoons lower down. From September onwards, autumn colours and lower visitor numbers make the Restonica valley and the forests particularly pleasant, before the first snows gradually close the high-altitude routes again.

Other activities to combine with hiking

Central Corsica lends itself to other ways of exploring its terrain to vary a multi-day stay. A <0><1>4x4 excursion<2><3> allows you to reach remote viewpoints in the interior more quickly, while the <4><5>campsites in the Corte area<6><7> provide a practical base for exploring the Restonica as well as the Niolu or Vizzavona depending on the day.